I worked as a commercial fisherman on draggers and
crabbers for 10 years from 1972 – 1982. For the first 5 years, my wife Su and I
lived on Kodiak Island, in the small fishing town of Kodiak, Alaska. As one
could imagine, these were some of the most exhilarating years of my life.
After the first 5 years though, I found myself at sea
for 9 months of each year and I decided that I wanted to spend more time with
my young family, meaning I’d have to get out of the fishing business. So, on a
trip back to Minneapolis one Christmas, I met with my youngest brother Chris
and we decided to start a landscaping business. For the first 5 years the
business was not successful enough to support my family so each Fall and Winter
I would return to the cold stormy waters of the North Pacific and Bering Sea to
fish King Crab and Snow Crab. This tale took place in 1979 during the Bering
Sea King Crab Season.
Best buddy Chris Jones
picked me up from the airport in the Marcy J’s 1 ton flatbed truck; we were
very excited to see each other. It had been since the previous March since we’d
last fished together, and the September 15th start of the Bering Sea
Crab Season looked promising. The quota for King Crab was even bigger than the
previous year and we each stood to earn between $40,000 - $70,000 during the
upcoming season. Who wouldn’t be excited!
After parking the truck at
the cannery, we walked down to the boat and I swung my sea bag over the rail
onto the deck of the Marcy J. She was a beautiful 100’ steel hulled combination
dragger/crabber and I had
fished aboard her for over a half dozen years. Harold
was our skipper and owner of the Marcy J and Chris was his oldest son. He and I
were built about the same, short and wiry. Perfect for working on the deck of
these older boats that really were not built for large men.
Working on deck repairing
some crab pots were the other two deckhands for this Crab Season; Millich Morris
(Mill) and Dave. Chris and I were both 28 years old and at 35 years each, Mill
and Dave were much older. “Geez Chris, do you think these old guys can keep up.
I mean, God, they are so old.” But, after working with these two seasoned
veterans I found I had nothing to fear. Mill was a great deckhand and knew all
there was to know about working on the deck of a Crabber. And Dave was the best
Engineer I was ever to meet. The four of us became fast friends.
That was the cool thing
about working on the Marcy J; the crew was always great and we got along well.
It was fun. There was always a lot of joking and rough kidding, and we all knew
how to give as well to receive.
It took about a week to
complete the preparations before departing from Kodiak for the Bering Sea. We
all knew that there would be no towns or stores to visit during the coming
season, which might last up to 90 days. Mill had already claimed the position
as cook, but I insisted on accompanying him to the multiple trips we needed to
make to Kraft’s Store to buy groceries. I wanted to help him of course, but I
had ulterior motives; Mill was from South Carolina and had some distinctly
different tastes in food. I needed to make sure we didn’t have to have grits
for breakfast every single day – which is what Mill had in mind! Grits &
eggs…
We all loved fresh fish,
and on the Marcy J we traditionally only purchased enough dinner meat for half
of our meals; we had fish every other night. Halibut, crab, codfish, octopus,
sole; the ocean was full of fish and we had our choice. My favorite breakfast
to this day is warmed up halibut from the previous night’s dinner - with eggs.
We also needed candy bars; lots. We burned up a tremendous amount of calories
while fishing and candy bars were always a great way to get some extra energy.
Heaping bags of them.
After I had assured myself
(and Chris) that we had all the candy bars we needed (along with getting the boat
ready) and the day finally came that we cast off the lines and the mighty Marcy
J headed out to sea. Up the channel we went, and waved to Harold’s wife Marcy who
always waved back to us as we left for a fishing trip from the deck of their
home at the end of the channel. Around Spruce Cape toward Whale Pass we went
and caught a favorable tide which washed us through the Pass at about 15 knots.
Our normal speed is 10 knots, so it is always fun to be swished through Whale
Pass on a favorable current.
We got to the far side of
Kodiak at about dark and headed south down Shelikof Straights. The long trip had
begun; 5 days of nothing but running. I always loved this trip along the virgin
terrain of the Alaska Peninsula. It was just as it had been a thousand years
ago; no towns, no houses, no people. Nothing but rough coastline forested with
short, stocky Sitka Spruce trees and Alders.
Harold, who was about my
dad’s age, and I were the best of buddies. I spent most days up in the
wheelhouse with Harold and me trading stories. He had served as a Helmsman
aboard a Liberty Ship in WW ll, and took his new wife Marcy to Juneau, AK after
the war to begin his career as a commercial fisherman. He had 30 years of seas
stories to tell – and he told them well. I loved telling stories too and we
never lacked for something to talk about. Really - for months at a time.
We decided to try and save
about 36 hours by taking the nearly un-navigable False Pass shortcut to the
Bering Sea. This narrow ditch is the first opening after the Peninsula and the
first of the Aleutian Islands, Unimak. Once through the narrow False Pass, the
real trick was to thread our way through the shifting sand bars that built up
on the Bering Sea side of the broken land mass of the Alaskan Peninsula and
Unimak Island. The small Salmon Seiners always marked a way through with buoys if there was one, but they drew less than 4 feet of water; the Marcy J’s depth
was 12 feet. A big difference! If we scrapped bottom, we wouldn’t sink because
the bottom was all sand and mud, but we might damage our Fathometers Transducer
which would require at least a week to repair. It was tricky business, but we
made it through – although we did come within a foot or two of the bottom a
couple of times. Scary!
Fall in the Bering Sea is
not for the faint of heart. There is always weather and back then there were no
weather satellites. What we saw is what we got. We did watch the barometer
carefully to see how bad it might get, but the needle seemed to always be
pointing to ‘Rain’; it really never read ‘Fair’ – or good weather in the Fall.
The day we arrived at the Bering Sea was no different. The sun was covered up
by thick grey swirling clouds and an 8 foot sea was running.
We had a full deckload of
75 King Crab Pots securely lashed down on deck and both our holds were filled
with circulating sea water which was needed for two reasons: 1.) We had to keep
the crab we were to catch alive until we sold them to the cannery, and 2.) with
full load of pots aboard stacked 18 feet high, we might capsize due to being
too top heavy with all that weight so far above the waterline. So we plowed
through the seas which were coming from the NW – our exact course. We were
slowed down to about 8 knots.
After a day or so, we were
150 miles off shore in a spot that Harold though might have some crab. “OK
boys” he said. “Let’s drop 3 strings of 25 pots each right about here – about a
mile apart. I think this just might be the ‘hot spot’”. We were always
searching for the hot spot of whatever we were fishing. Sometimes we hit;
sometimes we missed. If we hit, we were in the money. If we missed, we’d have
to restack the gear (crab pots) and search for another place to try.
The four of us deckhands turned
to and in an orderly fashion dropped all our pots off in 3 long strings of gear,
a pot every ¼ mile or so. Each string took about an hour to drop and then we
turned around to make the day and a half run down to Dutch Harbor on Unalaska
Is. – where the rest of our pots were stored.
Back in those days, Dutch
was about the wildest place in America. During Crab Season, the town would fill
up with ‘rich’ fishermen, and hundreds of young ‘cannery workers’. Many of the deckhands
were 20 year old kids who didn’t know what to do with all their money, so of
course there was a plethora of ‘working girls’ happy to help them shed some of
their burden.
Do you remember the
bar scene in the first ‘Star Wars’ movie? The Elbow
Room bar in Dutch Harbor looked like that. If you can picture 100
drunken young men with too much money, accompanied with more testosterone than
you can imagine – with women to match, you can get a feel for it. There were
fights inside/outside and you could hardly hear over the din of Rock ‘n Roll
being played and the shouting conversations happening between everyone. Wild.
I’ve never seen anything like it before – or since.”
End of Part I
How did our Season go? Find out in the next part of
Rouge Wave in next weeks’ Newsletter.